When choosing your hair products it’s extremly importat that you understand your hair type and the special needs your hair has? Celebrity stylist Andre Walker, an Emmy award winner, has created a numerical system for hair typing. This system is used to simplify and provide and exact definition for each type of hair. We’ve put together a hair chart that will help you identify your hair type. 

Type 4 – Kinky Hair 

According to Andre Walker, if your hair falls into the Type 4 category, then it is kinky, or very tightly curled. Generally, Type 4 hair is very wiry, very tightly coiled and very fragile. Similar to Type 3 hair, Type 4 hair appears to be coarse, but it is actually quite fine, with lots and lots of these strands densely packed together. Type 4 hair that is healthy won’t shine, but it will have sheen. It will be soft to the touch and will pass the strand test with ease. It will feel silkier than it will look shiny. 
Type 4 hairs looks tough and durable, but looks can be deceiving. If you have Type 4 hair, you already
know that it is the most fragile hair around. There are two subtypes of Type 4 hair: Type 4A, tightly coiled hair that, when stretched, has an S pattern, much like curly hair; and Type 4B, which has a Z pattern, less of a defined curl pattern (instead of curling or coiling, the hair bends in sharp angles like the letter Z). Type 4A tends to have more moisture than Type 4B, which will have a
wiry texture.

Type 3 - Curly Hair 

When this type of hair is wet, it appears to be pretty straight. As it dries, the hair goes back to its curly state. When curly hair is wet it usually straightens out. As it dries, it absorbs the water and contracts to its curliest state. Humidity tends to make this type of curly hair even curlier, or even frizzier. Type 3 hair has a lot of body and is easily styled in its natural state, or it can be easily straightened with a blow-dryer into a smoother style. Healthy Type 3 hair is shiny, with soft, smooth curls and strong elasticity. The curls are well-defined and springy. 
Andre defines two subtypes of curly hair. First, there is type 3A hair which is very loosely curled and usually very shiny with big curls. The shorter the hair is, the straighter it gets. The longer the hair is the more defined the curl. Then, there is type 3B hair which has a medium amount of curl to tight corkscrews. It’s not unusual to see a mixture of these types existing on the same head. Curly hair usually consists of a combination of textures, with the crown being the curliest part. Lastly there is a type 3C, is hair type that is not in Andre Walker’s book, but many people suggest that it should be. This type of hair can be described as tight curls in corkscrews. The curls can be either kinky, or very tightly curled, with lots and lots of strands densely packed together.

Type 2 – Wavy Hair

A relatively unusual type, wavy hair tends to be coarse, with a definite S pattern to it. There are three Type 2 subtypes: A- Fine /thin, B -medium-textured, and C – thick and coarse. Type 2A is
very easy to handle, blowing out into a straighter style or taking on curlier looks with relative ease. Types 2B and 2C are a little more resistant to styling and have a tendency to frizz.

Type 1 – Straight Hair

Type 1 is straight hair.

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How many times have you heard the acronyms “TWA,” “BSL,” “APL” or “ACV?” Do you know what they mean? If you’re totally confused, do NOT worry, because we’re here to help with some of the natural hair lingo that you may be hearing in the natural hair communities.

3A/3b/3C/4A/4B/4C = These represent the Hair Type Classification System created by hairstylist Andre Walker. Type 3 hair is curly with a visible curl pattern. Type 3 curls can range from big, loose, bouncy ringlets to tight corkscrews. Type 4 is kinky, or very tightly curled, with a less visible curl pattern. Type 4 curls can range from tight zigzag curls to extremely tight coils

2nd, 3rd, 4th, Day Hair = A phrase used to describe the number of days since you last styled your hair. Hair styled today would be considered 2nd day hair tomorrow

ACV = Apple Cider Vinegar: This is used by some to restore the natural pH to the hair, clean and condition

ALS = Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate or Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. These are the lathering agents in shampoo that can be drying and may contribute to hair damage and hair loss. This is why some companies are now touting sulfate-free on product labels

APL = Arm Pit Length: refers to hair that reaches the armpit

BC= Big Chop: Refers to the cutting off of relaxed hair, with the result of only natural hair being present on the scalp

Braid Out = A styling technique where the hair is braided to get create curl definition. The hair is then unbraided resulting in a full, crimped hairstyle

BSL= Bra Strap Length: refers to hair that reaches the bra strap position on a female’s back

Buds (Budding)= First stage in locking. Small, young sections that will eventually grow out and mature as actual dreadlocks

Cones = Silicones: class of chemical ingredients that is found in many commercial conditioners for the hair; use of a detergent shampoo is usually needed to remove them from the hair

Co-wash = Washing the hair with conditioner, instead of shampoo; Is done most times to replace shampoos that include harsh detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate

Creamy crack = A not so affectionate term used to refer to permanent hair relaxers; nickname was given by those who found it hard to stop getting relaxers before they transitioned to natural hair

DT or DC = Deep Treatment or Deep Conditioner. A DT is when you leave a moisturizing (or protein based, depending on your needs) conditioner on your hair for an extended period of time, along with a heat source to aid in penetration

EO = Essential Oils: refers to a large group of naturally occurring oils (For example: lemon oil, peppermint oil, rosemary oil, lavender oil etc.)

EVOO= Extra virgin olive oil

Humectants = Ingredients in hair products that help draw moisture from the air and into the hair shaft. The hair can become dry if the air is dry as well, so usage of humectants is recommended when there is moisture is in the air

No-poo = Washing method that does not involve the use of shampoo; co-washing is a type of no-poo method

Pineappling = A bedtime hair sleeping technique that curlies with long hair use to preserve and protect curls overnight so that they have great 2nd day hair. You gather all of your hair in a high, but loose ponytail at the top of your head and go to sleep on a satin pillowcase. In the morning you take it down and shake it out gently and all of your curls will have been preserved

Pre-Poo = Covering the hair with a deep conditioner or mixture of oils for 30 min. or more BEFORE shampooing the hair

Transition = Refers to the transition from relaxed to natural hair

TWA= Teeny Weeny Afro: Natural hair that is very close to the scalp; most times is the result of a Big Chop after a short transitioning stage

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Through the propagation of myths and misinformation (“trimming the ends will make your hair grow”), the hair industry has kept us hairless for years – and the popularity of weaves has made our condition worse. Why not fall in love with your hair and experience the hair you were born to love? Being African American does NOT mean you cannot grow your hair past your shoulders. African American hair AKA “dry” hair grows at the same rate as other ethnicities.

The key to increasing your hair length is to reduce breakage. All women, regardless of race, have a cuticle and a cortex. The key difference is the presence of curls/kinks. These curls/kinks impact how the sebum (natural moisturizer produced by the skin) travels down the hair shaft. The sebum quantity produced in people of African origin is actually thought to be higher than in Caucasians. Caucasian hair tends to distribute the oil better down the hair shaft, which actually makes hair of African origin oilier at the scalp while Caucasian hair is oilier down the shaft. Our hair thrives on moisture and oils, and when it receives this moisture, it is less prone to dryness and breakage. To obtain length, it is important to invest in quality products that help reduce and eliminate breakage.

Wearing a weave is a sure way to get a totally new look without subjecting your natural hair to a cut or instant color change, but have you considered the damaging effects that these two processes are causing your scalp and natural tresses? The results are far from pretty.  A new study has found that weaves and braids contribute to a type of permanent hair loss known as central centrifugal cicatricle alopecia or CCCA, a form of baldness that begins at the crown of the head and leads to scarring. This permanent hair loss appears to be common among African American women.

Weaves are known to add volume, thickness and length. There are a variety of ways in which weaves can be applied and depending on the method that you choose, weaves can also lead to hair loss or thinning.  The main downside of having hair weaves is an all-too-common problem of damage to the scalp and your natural hair as bacteria builds up through the weave. Wearing a weave blocks your hair from receiving any nutrients from the scalp, which makes your hair very dry. Moisture is needed to grow healthy hair and it helps to avoid breakage and dryness.

Anytime a sew-in/glue-in weave is put in the hair, one increases the chance of experiencing hair loss as a result.  The glue used in bonding hair weaves can cause damage to the scalp and the natural hair.  Over time, hair glue can and will destroy the hair, causing baldness in the areas where the glue is attached to the hair! In addition, the glue tends to become dry and tangled with the natural hair, making it difficult to remove.  As a result, the tangled hair is removed along with the glue, causing additional hair loss and breakage.

The time has truly come for African Americans Women to remove the wool which has been pulled over our eyes by the hair care industry for so many years and wear the hair we were born to love! Let’s take responsibility for our hair’s health by educating ourselves and using our purchasing power to demand healthy, affordable products, formulated not to mask our hair, but match our hair care needs!

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We are often asked questions about the presence of alcohol in hair care products. Many of us are aware of the damaging effects alcohol can have on our dry hair. But did you know that not all alcohols are bad? Yes, there are certain alcohols that are used in products which can be very drying to our curly/kinky hair. However, we often get scared when we see ingredients that include the word “alcohol” in a product we buy, including those labeled as conditioning products. While some can cause dry, frizzy hair others can actually act to condition your hair!

There are thousands of alcohols and some can have very different properties. Alcohols are used in different products for different reasons. For example, one well known alcohol is ethanol. Ethanol can be found in hair spray products. Products containing ethanol evaporate rapidly and are used in products to hold the hair in place. They tend to dry very quickly, which will in fact soak up the moisture in the hair in the process.  Another alcohol that is commonly used is cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Alcohols that are fatty actually help add moisture to the hair and help to soften it.

BAD ALCOHOLS

The alcohols that you should steer clear of are those known as short-chain alcohols. These types of alcohols tend to evaporate quickly, which can lead to our worst enemy – dryness. Bad alcohols are normally used as a finishing product. They help to hold the hair in place. You can find these alcohols in hair spray, spritz and gel. Here are some of the bad alcohols you want to avoid:

•  Ethanol
• SD Alcohol
• SD Alcohol 40
• Alcohol Denat
• Propanol
• Propyl Alcohol
• Isopropyl Alcohol
• Isobutane

GOOD ALCOHOLS

You want your products to utilize fatty alcohols, which are derived from natural sources. Fatty alcohols are good alcohols. These alcohols have a creamy consistency, which give the hair a smooth, soft feeling by helping the cuticle to lie flat on the surface of the hair. These type of alcohols can be found in shampoo, moisturizer, conditioner etc. The following are some examples of good “fatty” alcohols:

•  Stearyl Alcohol
• Cetyl Alcohol
• Cetearyl Alcohol
• Lauryl Alcohol
• Myristyl Alcohol
• Behenyl Alcohol

When checking the ingredients labels on your hair products, please remember to select the “good” alcohols that are moisturizing and avoid the “bad” alcohols that are drying. Choosing the right alcohols can make a world of a difference in how your hair feels and also the health of your hair.

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It is said that African-American women make up an estimated Ninety-five percent of the clientele at Dominican hair shops. Dominican salons are known for their signature hair styling technique called the “Blowout.” The blowout includes:  shampoo,  deep conditioned (optional), roller setting the hair, then sitting the client under the dryer to dry. Once the client comes from under the dryer, a round brush is used to blow dry the hair to obtain the finished look. For a more straighter, sleeker style, some Dominican stylists may even add a flat iron to this technique, which is normally done after the blow drying step. This lengthy process applies entirely too much heat to the hair. African-American women tend to flock to these salons because of their low prices and fast walk-in service. Costs for services can range from $25-$55 depending on location. Prices can fluctuate based on other factors such as hair length and whether the hair is chemical-free.

Our mothers warned us: “cheaper is not always better.” The styling technique used in most Dominican salons can cause severe damage and even eventually lead to baldness in African American women if treatments are not performed properly. The stylists often use tightly-bristled brushes which aggressively rip through the hair, pulling and causing breakage. The technique is extremely stressful and damaging to the hair, especially if it has been chemically treated. Repetitive brushing of the hair from the scalp to the ends, and the application of too much heat from dryers and flat irons is drying, damaging and destructive!

The amount of heat that is used can be VERY damaging to ones hair. The blow dryer that is used to straighten and style your hair can have damaging effects on your hair, because your hair was already dried after coming from under the dryer. Always remember:  NEVER blow dry hair that has been already dried. Heat is the worst enemy to our dry hair!! Too much heat makes the hair very brittle and easy to break and results in lost elasticity. Ninety-six percent of American homes have a blow-dryer, but it’s important to blow-dry your hair as little as possible to help retain moisture and not dry it out. Blow dryers range between 750-1600 watts. This excessive heat can damage hair even when used by a trained professional.

To grow long and strong hair, especially relaxed hair, you must keep the moisture content of your hair above 15% percent. The average person’s hair moisture content ranges between 8% to 10%. Yet, due to the styling techniques used on African American hair, such as flat irons, blow dryers, etc…African Americans’ hair moisture content usually falls much lower than the 8% range. This leads to breakage and dryness and makes it difficult for African American hair to grow beyond the nape of the neck. To combat this and increase moisture, African Americans desiring longer hair must start using hair care products that benefit their hair. These products should be high in natural oils, which keep our dry hair moisturized. Rapunzel’s Hair Care products are high in natural oils and it keeps our dry hair moisturized without leaving your hair greasy/oily. Our products will help put the moisture back into your hair where your Dominican stylist’s  blow dryer just depleted it.

For many African-American women, the intense heat technique is not good. Remember moisture needs to be kept in the hair to stimulate growth and nourishment. To prevent damage to your hair when going to the Dominican salons, please do the following: 

• Use your Rapunzel hair care products. Our products and regimen will help to strengthen your hair.
• Scale your visits down to once or twice a month. Excessive heat on the hair can be very damaging and will lead to breakage.
• Avoid letting the Dominican stylist dry your hair with the blow dryer every week, if you’re a weekly customer, you are depleting the moisture that you just put in it by washing it!

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Summer is finally here and the heat has officially begun to wreak havoc on our hair!  The heat, sun, sea salt and chlorine have our tresses looking dry and damaged.  Dryness is the enemy to our hair, because it leads to breakage.  At Rapunzel The Future of Hair, we have the steps needed to repair damage and prevent further harm to your hair during this season.

Tips to keep your hair hydrated, which in turn will allow you to retain length.

• Increase your washes and deep condition your hair after each wash.  Instead of washing and deep conditioning once a week, increase it to 2-3x’s a week.  Remember:  water is moisture.
•  Moisturize often.  Moisture is the key step to maintaining the hair you have on your head and adding to it. Moisture is needed to avoid breakage and dryness.  You should be moisturizing your hair with a water-based moisturizer (water should be the first ingredient listed on the label) twice a day.  If you find your hair needs more moisture, you may choose to apply a moisturizer as often as three times a day.
• Wear protective styles.  Opt for easy styles like naturally curly/braid outs, buns, pony tails, French braids, or a wig for protection against heat.  These styles, with the help of a daily moisturizer, lock in moisture and prevent breakage, which will help to retain length.
• Beat Frizz.  Frizz is caused by dryness, therefore; the best way to prevent dryness is to keep the hair moist.
• Air dry.  Using heat too frequently during humid weather can really rob the hair of moisture leading to unnecessary dryness and breakage.  Try to eliminate the blow dryer from your regimen as much as possible.  Research shows that air drying dry hair is typically the best drying method for hair because the moisture just added to it by washing and deep conditioning will not be immediately depleted by intense heat (curling irons, pressing combs, blow dryers).  Air-drying may take longer, but it is much healthier for your hair.
• Protect your hair when swimming at the pool or beach.  Chlorine can be very damaging to both natural and chemically treated hair.  If you’re hitting the pool frequently, chlorine can lead to breakage and splits ends.  If your hair is color treated, beware of salt water.  Salt water can make the color treated hair look dull or even change color if hair is exposed frequently.  Always wash your hair after a dip in the pool/beach.

 Remember to be proactive in your summer hair care to keep your hair healthy, moisturized and shiny.

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Kinky/Curly hair can shrink dramatically up to 50-80% of its true length, depending on how tight the curl pattern is. Shrinkage can make hair that falls to the mid back when straightened shrink up to just past the shoulder when it dries naturally after a wash, and shoulder length hair can tighten to ear length hair etc. Shrinkage can be one of the main obstacles for women who want to go natural. No wonder so many African American women turn to relaxers and texturizers to loosen or straighten out the curls/kinks. However, chemicals and heat are notorious for weakening and damaging the hair during the straightening process. Which in turn leaves many women opting for a much more healthier approach.

Although, anyone with a curl pattern is highly unlikely to avoid shrinkage, there are ways to keep it at a minimum when you’re styling your hair.

Banding – this involves sectioning hair when it is wet then tying a series of hair bands from root to tip hence the hair remains stretched as it dries. The bands are then taken down and hair is styled as usual.

Weigh it down – Some leave-in conditioners and crème moisturizers can help to weigh your mane down and stretch the curl pattern, which in turn will help to elongate the hair.  Remember to always avoid using products with alcohol, because alcohol can dry your hair out!  Also, avoid products that can clog your pores such as petroleum/grease and mineral oil, which simply lie on the surface of the hair and prevent moisture from penetrating.

Blow it out – This can be done after the hair has been washed and deep conditioned. A blow dryer should be applied to wet hair only. Use a paddle brush to elongate the curl/kink tresses.  Remember to avoid using heat excessively.  Do NOT apply heat to your hair more than once a week!  Always moisturize your hair, seal it with oil, and use a thermal heat protecting product prior to blow drying your freshly washed and conditioned hair.  Blown out hair is soft and elongated, and comes close to showing your true length.

Twisting & Braiding – This is the most common technique for reducing shrinkage. The braids or twists are undone once completely dry imparting a beautiful texture on the hair or leaving it relatively ‘stretched’ out and ready for the next step of the styling process. When braiding or twisting remember to pull hair firm, but not hard. Always moisturize your hair.

Diffuse your curly hair – Invest in a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment, or get a diffuser that you can attach to a blow dryer you already have at home. Use a towel to absorb excess water from hair after shampooing and deep conditioning as usual. Water drags any existing curl down; hair looks straighter rather than springy if the excess water is not absorbed right away. Apply your favorite curl-enhancing product on your palm and rub your hands together before working it into your wet hair. Turn the blow dryer on, making sure it is set to “low,” as you don’t want to blast your hair with excessive heat. Press the diffuser to your head, making sure it is cupping the hair in that section; scrunch the diffuser into your hair so that the strands coil around the teeth on the diffuser—combined with the heat from the blow dryer, this is what will make your curls bigger. Hold the diffuser in any one spot for about 35 to 45 seconds. Get more body in your hairstyle by bending over at the waist and tilting your head sideways as you repeat the process. You may have to go over some areas several times, depending on how much more curlier you want your style to be. Stop when your hair feels mostly dry. Finger style your hair when you are finished. Do not use a comb or brush, as either of these will break down your curls or waves.

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How many of you avoid going to the gym, because you don’t want to mess up your hair or sweat it out?  A study showed that 31% of the 103 African-American Women surveyed admitted they exercise less, because it may harm their hairstyle.  Exercise is especially important in the African American community because we are more prone to diabetes, hypertension, and complications due to obesity, including heart disease. Though we face many health concerns that exercise will combat, African American Women often give in to that special deterrent to working out: their hair.

Now that the New Year is here, everyone wants healthier bodies without compromising their hair. Your work out shouldn’t dictate your hair regimen and your hair regimen shouldn’t limit how much you work out.  Wouldn’t life be easier if you could focus on pedaling on your spinning bike and not worry about the damage that the sweat and extreme workout is doing to your hairstyle? Sweat, dirt and other factors are the main enemies when working out.  Exposing your follicles to extreme conditions can lead to hairstyle disasters and more problems later.

Perspiration causes the hair to become wet and revert back to its naturally curly and/or coarse state. Sweat, which is comprised of water and salts (sodium and potassium), can make the hair appear dry and dull. You can prevent sweat damage to your hair during exercise by controlling moisture and salt buildup.  Salty buildup causes your hair to break, become dull and even dry.

Here are some hair care tips on how to maintain your hair while still getting the full potential of your work out session.

1. For straightened hair, try pulling your hair into a firm ponytail. Make sure to use an elastic band without a metal clasp to avoid ripping your hair. Place a sweat band (Wearing a headband helps absorb moisture from the hairline, which gives minimum frizz) at your hairline, this not only helps to keep sweat out of your eyes, it will keep your edges in place. Once the hair is in a ponytail twist it and secure it with a hairpin. This will allow the hair to retain body and bounce in your post workout hairstyle.  The number one goal with hair management during exercise is keeping it out of your face and off your neck.
2. If your hair has been curled with a hot curler or roller set, try pin curling your hair. This is done by taking large sections of the hair, combing each section into one large curl, twisting the curl down onto the scalp and securing the curl with a bobby pin or metal two prong metal clip. Six to ten large pin curls should suffice. After your hair has dried, finger style your hair into place. This preserves your curls and keeps the hair full of body and volume.
3. If you are taking part in water sports, wrap your hair around your head in a circular motion using metal duckbill clips to hold the hair in place if necessary. Cover your hair with a satin or silk scarf. Finally, cover the scarf with a latex or silicone swim cap.
4. Wear your hair natural/Braid out.  Hair in this state can make your workouts worry-free. Your hair is already in its natural state, so you can relax and you don’t have to worry about texture reversion.  (Tip:  Simply shampoo and deep condition every 3 days or at least once a week and moisturize daily.  Use a natural moisturizer such as Rapunzel’s Hair Silk to hydrate hair in between workouts).
5. Braid your natural hair (no extensions).  Neatly plaited hair stays out of your face, so braids are a great way to prep your tresses before working out. Just make sure your strands aren’t pulled so tight that you suffer hair loss. (Tip: Easily remove buildup by cleansing your scalp weekly with a sulfate-free shampoo and follow up with Rapunzel’s Protein Conditioner. Then moisturize your hair with Rapunzel’s Hair Silk.) This style lasts from four to six weeks.
6. Opt for a custom made wig.  This styling option is one of the most convenient ways to protect and care for your hair underneath and work out. Especially for those who are transitioning or just looking to grow their hair out to a certain style or length.  Wigs last longer, because there is no daily upkeep forcing flat iron or curling iron usage, which means no hair breakage from excessive heat appliance use. (Tip:  Simply shampoo and deep condition every 3 days or at least once a week and moisturize daily).

What’s more important your hair or your health? Ladies, remember if you want a healthy body exercising is a must.  Don’t let your hair prevent you from your workout routine.  Healthy hair starts with a healthy body!

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Au’ Natural PROS:

- Healthier hair that’s not stripped away of its natural oils.
- Less breakage, if kept moisturized. Because natural hair is stronger it can handle chemicals from hair dye better than relaxed hair. You also have the option to style curly or flat iron for a straight look, although excessive heat should be avoided.

Au’ Natural CONS:

- Major increase in daily maintenance.
- Straight styles may not last as long because humidity causes frizz.

Relaxed PROS:

- Easier to manage daily. Relaxers literally “relax” the curl of your natural texture resulting in a straight finish which is less prone to knots finish.
- Deals better with natural elements. When relaxed, your hair is permanently straightened– meaning neither wind, rain, or shine can change what the chemical has done. Unlike natural hair straightened by heat, when water/moisture hits relaxed hair, it can dry straight.

Relaxed CONS:

- Hair damage from years of harsh chemical use. Remember the scene from “Good Hair” when the scientist melts the aluminum can with that active ingredient in relaxers? Relaxers irreversibly alter the natural pH balance and chemical breakdown of your hair, thereby weakening each strand. Hair breakage and scalp irritation are very common side effects from improper application and/or maintenance. Also the chemicals in your hair don’t mix well with other chemicals (i.e. the chlorine in pools) and can further damage your lovely locks.
- Relaxed hair must be washed and deep conditioned/hydrated every week.
- A relaxer is one of the most drying chemical processes we can do to our hair
- Care must be taken after the use of a relaxer product or any chemical process to minimize hair breakage.

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